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TIME TRAVEL
Opatija, June 10th - 12th 2005
For those who know absolutely NOTHING about this city, to inform you a
bit about Opatija's history (or what my own personal subjective judgment
find interesting, for more information go to the turistic site of Opatija)so
you will have a general idea of the project that was called -Time travel
into the period of Austria-Hungary- that was held on 10-12th of June..
Opatija was named after the Benedictine abbey (Opatija means abbey in
Croatian).
This small abbey was probably built in the beginning of the 12th century,
as were all other Benedictine abbeys in Istria and the region of Kvarner.
Many yearned to have it as their own possession. It was under the ownership
of the Kastavian nobility until 1552, when emperor Ferdinand gave it to
the bishop Živković of Senj with exclusive rights of administering the
monastery and disposing with its incomes.
Skipping some centuries :...At the end of the 19th century, word about
this divine little place on the Adriatic coast spread quickly throughout
Europe. On March 4th, 1889 Opatija was proclaimed as a health resort.
A list of famous guest who were enchanted by Opatija is a long one. It
was visited by many crowned heads. The Austrian emperor Francis Josepf,
the German and Swedish royal couples, the duke and duchess of Luxembourg,
the royal couple of Rumania, king George of Greece, prince Wilhelm of
Hohenzollern, the Bulgarian queen, and many grand dukes, princes, archdukes...
One of the things you will first notice in Opatija and she stands as
her symbol, is the statue of a maid with a sea-gull
It was made in 1956 but what many people do not know that the maid with
the sea-gull replaced another statue that stood in the same place ages
ago.
The statue of Madonna. She was made 1891 in memory of a young couple
who lost their lives at sea during a terrible storm, but due to the
time and the effects of the wind and sea was ruined and never again
to be restored.
Some say the coast of Opatija is haunted by the spirit of the tragic
couple, and I must admit there is a certain beautiful sadness present
in the air, as it always seems to rain in that part or have black clouds
hovering over it.
Moving along....
Opatija's sea, its parks, promenades, beaches, hotel rooms and villas,
like the Villa Madonna, keep the secrets of many romantic love stories,
from the Viennese Court to those of the common folk and not all are
sad. For me it really is one of the most romantic places I have visited,
but more in a kind of "soulmate" love rather then in young
enchanted way.
The magnificent facades ornamented with vivacious
plastic art, the striking stairways and lavishly furnished interiors
are a reflection of the spirit of the times, a spirit striving for refinement
and distinction. Opatija grew together with its guests - the imperial
and royal nobility, the Austrian and Hungarian elite, and the celebrated
artists who came here in search of rest - and found inspiration.
Opatija's urban and architectural appearance was formed by its seaside
location and its transformation from a littoral township into a mundane
tourist and health centre. That is why the fronts of Opatija's building,
surrounded by cultivated gardens and luscious natural vegetation, all
face the sea and the sun. History is preserved in the old hotel edifices.
It is as if Opatija's natural environment takes pride in itself and
enjoys its own beauty and sumptuousness. The early Spring adorns Opatija
with blossoming parks and red cherries, the hot Summer offers the refreshments
of the sea. The early Fall, when grapes ripen, enlivens its promenades
on the sea shore and up in the woods full of chestnut trees, over which
the snow white peak of Učka hovers in the Winter. When snow drifts cover
the roads throughout most of Europe, here oil is being strained from
the olive, the laurel is green and camellia blooms like the caps of
the bell-ringers whose bells announce the start of the primeval Carnival
customs of the region.
From the romantic dusks to the captivating dawns, nights on the Opatija
Riviera are a special experience made up of hopes and dreams, fun, spectacles,
and folk festivities.
So this project of "Timetravel "was meant
to be set as a big stage of happenings that would project the time period
between 19th and the 20th century. As a crossing over to a time long
past by… A time when people like Franc Josef, Mahler, Isidora Duncan
walked through the promenades of our Adriatic pearl.
In the three day happenings that were organized starting at gardens
around Villa Angiolina, through seaside promenades, people could hear
recitals of well known writers from the 19th century, concerts of composers
that were known to have visited Opatija in her most glorious years,
see people dressed in robes that were worn in courts from that crossing
point of the 19 century, see the designs of swim-suits from that period,
all mixed with normal visitors, so it looked like an interactive performance.
The "modern" times mixed with the "old".
Through the central street in Opatija (which was meant to be closed
in that three days performance) you could see original carriages galloping
through the central street and even "hitch" a ride, a original
shoe-shiner dressed from the last century was also giving his service
for a few gold nickels..
Restaurants were also involved in this project mixing up old recepies
that were served in courts to the nobles...An example…
Restaurant Amfora
Menu-"Opatija's imperial feast"
Crab bellevue, smoked salmon, shrimp cocktail, caviar and a glass of
champagne
Vienna cream crap soup with asparagus and glass of white wine Žlahtina
(this wine was drunk in court of Maria Theresa).
Lasagna stuffed with quail and quail eggs and a glass of Rose wine from
the royal cellar "Kutjevo"
"Schonbrun" cake and a glass of sherry "Hektorović"
For this Royal menu you would have to pay a Royal amount but that didn't
stop most of the people from dinning here, it was a FULL house all three
days..
But the first thing you would notice in Opatija in
the Timetravel, for the early birds, was a postman dressed in the original
robes of that time, who announced his presence with the sound of a horn
(which was a tradition in those times, and in now days still stands
as a symbol for post office), and he was dealing post card with old
photos of Opatija in envelopes that were usual for that time, with seal
and all...
It is hard to capture in few words what this idea
wanted to project for those who never have seen Opatija. For this really
is a city frozen in time. Maybe the clothes have changed, maybe people
talk different, listen to different kind of music but here everything
just feels old even if in is clothed in new garments...
The beautiful pearl on the Adriatic coast forever lost in time
The archdukes made Opatija…
The suave and easygoing Austrian archdukes,
In white jackets, black trousers, radiant gloves,
With monocles oil their eve and horse whip in their hands,.
An immaculate parting, fine
moustache, long armed and like in a septet
notorious Merry Widows women, women, women
from everywhere: Viennese ballerinas, Hungarian
horsewomen, countesses and baronesses from Hofburg,
ladies of the courts....
(From the work Romanzo di Abbazia by Lucio d'Ambra, Milan 1937)
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